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January 11th 2008
The place President Theodore Roosevelt called "the one great site
every American should see" became a national monument 100 years ago
today.
"In the Grand Canyon," Roosevelt said, "Arizona has a natural wonder
which is in kind absolutely unparalleled throughout the rest of the
world. I want to ask you to keep this great wonder of nature as it now
is. I hope you will not have a building of any kind, not a summer
cottage, a hotel or anything else, to mar the wonderful grandeur, the
sublimity, the great loneliness and beauty of the canyon. Leave it as it
is. You cannot improve on it. The ages have been at work on it, and man
can only mar it."
But hotels were built. And automobiles and Marvelous Marv arrived!
Because the Grand Canyon
is the only natural wonder of the world located in the continental
United States, it is an intriguing international travel destination.
Grand Canyon National Park is a World Heritage Site administered under
the auspices of the United Nations and regulated by the U.S. Department
of Interior under the jurisdiction of the National Park Service.
Over-regulation has fostered the development of traffic patterns and
transportation systems purportedly designed to efficiently accommodate
the annual visitor population of five million.
Currently 19 overcrowded shuttle busses operate in the park and
transport the public within a eight
square mile administrative area (the village loop and the Canyon View
Information Plaza also known as the new visitor's center) with two additional
routes serving the popular Hermit Road (9 mile scenic route one way) and Yaki Point (4 miles one way to the head of Kaibab trail, a canyon corridor
hiking trail).
 Most day visitors travel by private vehicle (embarking on a
parking experience rather than a park experience) or they buy a ticket for
what they expect to be a ride on a historic train from Williams through the
Kaibab National Forest along the plateau to the rim of the canyon (however
the historic steam engine is used only from May to October, thereafter it
is diesel season, and at best, the 60 mile train trip lasts three hours at
27 miles per hour) . These factors leave most visitors confused,
bewildered, unhappy and frustrated. Forward thinking guests of the Grand Canyon book a private tour with
me . My guests are entertained with facts and figures concerning the Grand
Canyon touching on cultural history, physical history, geology,
anthropology, biology (flora and fauna), biodiversity and more, all
combined with a unique brand of western humor that only I can wield.
 As
my guest, you will ride in a clean, luxury, 15-passenger vans equipped
with public address system, air conditioning, video as I, whose 40
years as a resident and business man of the Williams-Grand Canyon area,
provide insight into the political system
controlling our national parks as well as a spiritualism incumbent upon those
who love and respect the grandeur of the Canyon. My Mission is to educate and
inform my guests of the wonders of this national
treasure and to enlist the support of others concerned with protecting our
national heritage.
All of this for a nominal fee which
entails a full day of touring, talking, educating, question and answer period,
lunch at the Canyon Cafe, a full service cafeteria with no tipping required
(lunch is on your own but I do accompany you - I seldom leave the tour
group except to park the vehicle in little known parking areas and to pick
you up at convenient pre-designated spots so you never get lost). There is
a shopping opportunity at Verkamp's Curios, one of the finest galleries in
the southwest, where one can find anything from authentic handmade Hopi
Katchina's to native American jewelry. And for those who wish, a short hiking excursion along
the rim trail or into the canyon a short distance along the Bright Angel
(ravine trail) or the Kaibab (ridge trail) as weather and the press of visitor
population permits. The altitude (7000 feet) and the dry climate can be daunting
to those guests from sea level however, I watch out for your well-being,
taking special precautions for the accompanied mentally and physically impaired
guest, the young, and the elderly ( please note that we are not
handicapped accessible although seeing eye-dogs are allowed and ultimately
one is responsible for one's own safety). After a full day on tour the
guest is soothed via audio cassette with native American flute music
inspired by the sights and sounds of the canyon, or video entertainment during the van ride back to
the point of departure in Williams or Tusayan, Arizona.
A little known fact about the Grand
Canyon...
The average stay in the Park by the average tourist is
four hrs. The average time the average tourist looks at the Grand
Canyon is only 17 minutes! I DO NOT recommend the train ride to the Grand
Canyon from Williams! The Railway just sold to corporate interest
and will change drastically in the near future! Corporate taking over from
private ownership. The train is just transportation and not the way to
'experience' the Grand Canyon. I do not recommend the Skywalk of West
Grand Canyon. Full details on that has recently been posted on my Policies
and Politics page.
Truly see and learn about the Grand Canyon with me and not
just look over the edge!! Avoid what you see
below going with me!
Here is just a small portion of what you will
learn with me while on tour...
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Friday, March 07, 2008
WASHINGTON -- Gazing into the majestic Grand
Canyon, awe-struck visitors inevitably ask: "How
old is it?"
Far older than generally thought, says new
evidence that scientists culled from caves
lining the canyon's red limestone cliffs. The
Grand Canyon often is referred to as about 6
million years old -- but its western half
actually began to open at least 17 million years
ago, a University of New Mexico team reports
Friday in the journal Science.
Wait: The western side of the canyon is the
downstream end of the Colorado River, so how
could it be older than the arguably more
spectacular eastern side?
Remember, geologists caution, that the Grand
Canyon was carved from drainage systems that
didn't turn into the single river we now know as
the Colorado until roughly 6 million years ago.
The new research suggests two canyons formed
that eventually joined. And it makes sense that
the older side would even look different, less
jagged, thanks to more years of gravity and wind
erosion to soften its edges.
"This is really exciting for those of us who
work in the stories and theories of how the
Grand Canyon has evolved," Arizona geologist
Wayne Ranney, author of "Carving the Grand
Canyon," said of the new work. "This paper helps
us to more clearly understand that different
parts of the canyon formed at different times.
That's how big the Grand Canyon is."
How and when the Grand Canyon formed has been a
question of both geologists and average visitors
since John Wesley Powell's famous first
expedition in 1869.
Dating the canyon's carving has been difficult
because it has largely depended on evidence from
exposed rock and mineral deposits that
themselves erode over time.
The University of New Mexico team tried a new
technique: Testing formations inside the
numerous caves that line the Grand Canyon --
protected formations less susceptible to erosion
-- that form at the water table. So cave
specialist Carol Hill said they should provide a
record of how the water table dropped over time
as the canyon was cut deeper and deeper.
First Hill and colleagues made the grueling
climbs to cull the formations from caves in 10
different spots along the length of the Grand
Canyon. Then came work in specialized labs to
pin down the age of each formation, using a
method called uranium-lead isotope testing.
The findings: The western side of what is now
the Grand Canyon started forming about 17
million years ago, and that initial erosion was
fairly slow and steady -- a couple of inches
every thousand years.
The canyon formed not just downward and westward
but it opened steadily to the east, too, through
what geologists call "headward erosion," the
team reports -- until the western side cut
through enough rock to meet water on the eastern
side, around 5 to 6 million years ago.
Then the action really started, with the eastern
side of the canyon being cut at a rate of about
8 inches to almost a foot every thousand years,
they report.
Why the speedup? The new research can't say
exactly, but Ranney notes that land mass was
shifting around a lot during this period, too,
heaving some sections of rock and lowering
others. The Hurricane and Toroweap faults in the
western Grand Canyon dropped enough to
essentially form a waterfall, speeding water
flow enough that the eastern side was being
ripped as the river plunged to the west, he
explained.
While geologists point to some questions in the
new research, overall it does fit with various
theories about how the Grand Canyon formed, said
Rebecca Fowler of the University of Colorado,
Boulder, who also studies the Grand Canyon.
"All of it is pointing toward a pretty complex
history of Grand Canyon development, which is
one of the reas ns this area has been so
controversial," she said. "It's a pretty
complicated system and it's very likely that the
entire Grand Canyon did not incise (cut) all at
one time." |
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The Grand Canyon is a massive rift in the Colorado Plateau
that exposes uplifted Proterozoic and Paleozoic strata and is also one of the
six distinct physiographic sections of the Colorado Plateau province. The Grand
Canyon is unmatched throughout the world for the vistas it offers to visitors on
the rim. It is not the deepest canyon in the world - both the Cotahuasi Canyon
(11598 feet or 3535 m), Colca Canyon (10499 feet or 3200 m), both in Arequipa,
Peru and Hell's Canyon on the Oregon-Idaho border are deeper - but Grand Canyon
is known for its overwhelming size and its intricate and colorful landscape.
Geologically it is significant because of the thick sequence of ancient rocks
that are beautifully preserved and exposed in the walls of the canyon. These
rock layers record much of the early geologic history of the North American
continent.Uplift associated with mountain building events later moved these
sediments thousands of feet upward and created the Colorado Plateau. The higher
elevation has also resulted in greater precipitation in the Colorado River
drainage area, but not enough to change the Grand Canyon area from being
semi-arid. The uplift of the Colorado Plateau is uneven, and the north-south
trending Kaibab Plateau that Grand Canyon bisects is over a thousand feet higher
at the North Rim (about 1,000 ft/300 m) than at the South Rim. The fact that the
Colorado River flows in a curve around the higher North Rim part of the Kaibab
Plateau and closer to the South Rim part of the plateau is also explained by
this asymmetry. Ivo Lucchitta of the U.S. Geological Survey first suggested
that, as the Colorado River developed before significant erosion of the region,
it naturally found its way across or around the Kaibab Uplift by following a
"racetrack" path to the south of the highest part of the plateau. Almost all
runoff from the North Rim (which also gets more rain and snow) flows toward the
Grand Canyon, while much of the runoff on the plateau behind the South Rim flows
away from the canyon (following the general tilt). The result is deeper and
longer tributary washes and canyons on the north side and shorter and steeper
side canyons on the south side.Temperatures on the North Rim are generally lower
than the South Rim because of the greater elevation (averaging 8,000 ft/2,438 m
above sea level).[2] Heavy rains are common on both rims during the summer
months. Access to the North Rim via the primary route leading to the canyon
(Arizona State Route 67) is limited during the winter season due to road
closures. Views from the North Rim tend to give a better impression of the
expanse of the canyon than those from the South Rim. Main article: Geology of
the Grand Canyon area
The principal consensus among geologists is that the Colorado River basin (of
which the Grand Canyon is a part) has developed in the past 40 million years and
that the Grand Canyon itself is probably less than five to six million years old
(with most of the downcutting occurring in the last two million years). The
result of all this erosion is one of the most complete geologic columns on the
planet.
Looking down Bright Angel trail to the Grand Canyon. The green area is Indian
Gardens and the trail continues to Phantom Ranch at the river where a suspension
bridge allows access to the North Rim.
Looking down Bright Angel trail to the Grand Canyon. The green area is Indian
Gardens and the trail continues to Phantom Ranch at the river where a suspension
bridge allows access to the North Rim.
The major geologic exposures in Grand Canyon range in age from the 2 billion
year old Vishnu Schist at the bottom of the Inner Gorge to the 230 million year
old Kaibab Limestone on the Rim. Interestingly, there is a gap of about one
billion years between the stratum that is about 500 million years old and the
lower level, which is about 1.5 billion years old. That indicates a period of
erosion between two periods of deposition.
Many of the formations were deposited in warm shallow seas, near-shore
environments (such as beaches), and swamps as the seashore repeatedly advanced
and retreated over the edge of a proto-North America. Major exceptions include
the Permian Coconino Sandstone, which most (though not all)[3][4][5][6][7]
geologists claim was laid down as sand dunes in a desert, and several parts of
the Supai Group.
The great depth of the Grand Canyon and especially the height of its strata
(most of which formed below sea level) can be attributed to 5,000 to 10,000 feet
(1500 to 3000 m) of uplift of the Colorado Plateau, starting about 65 million
years ago (during the Laramide Orogeny). This uplift has steepened the stream
gradient of the Colorado River and its tributaries, which in turn has increased
their speed and thus their ability to cut through rock (see the elevation
summary of the Colorado River for present conditions).
Weather conditions during the ice ages also increased the amount of water in the
Colorado River drainage system. The ancestral Colorado River responded by
cutting its channel faster and deeper.
The base level and course of the Colorado River (or its ancestral equivalent)
changed 5.3 million years ago when the Gulf of California opened and lowered the
river's base level (its lowest point). This increased the rate of erosion and
cut nearly all of the Grand Canyon's current depth by 1.2 million years ago. The
terraced walls of the canyon were created by differential erosion.[8]
About one million years ago, volcanic activity (mostly near the western canyon
area) deposited ash and lava over the area, which at times completely obstructed
the river. These volcanic rocks are the youngest in the canyon.The Spanish
explorers
In September 1540, under orders from the conquistador Francisco V zquez de
Coronado to search for the fabled Seven Cities of Cibola, Captain Garcia Lopez
de Cardenas, along with Hopi guides and a small group of Spanish soldiers,
traveled to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon between Desert View and Moran
Point. Pablo de Melgrossa, Juan Galeras, and a third soldier descended some one
third of the way into the Canyon until they were forced to return because of
lack of water. In their report, they noted that some of the rocks in the Canyon
were "bigger than the great tower of Seville."[10] It is speculated that their
Hopi guides must have been reluctant to lead them to the river, since they must
have known routes to the canyon floor. Afterwards, no Europeans visited the
Canyon for over two hundred years.
Fathers Francisco Atanasio Dom¡nguez and Silvestre V‚lez de Escalante were two
Spanish Priests who, with a group of Spanish soldiers, explored southern Utah
and traveled along the North Rim of the Canyon in Glen and Marble Canyons in
search of a route from Santa Fe to California in 1776. They eventually found a
crossing at present-day Lees Ferry.
Also in 1776, Fray Francisco Garces, a Franciscan missionary, spent a week near
Havasupai, unsuccessfully attempting to convert a band of Indians. He described
the Canyon as "profound".[10]
The United States government made the Grand Canyon a national park in 1919
The United States government made the Grand Canyon a national park in 1919
Jacob Hamblin (a Mormon missionary) was sent by Brigham Young in the 1850s to
locate easy river crossing sites in the Canyon. Building good relations with
local Native Americans and white settlers, he discovered Lee's Ferry in 1858 and
Pierce Ferry (later operated by, and named for, Harrison Pierce) - the only two
sites suitable for ferry operation.[citation needed] He also acted as an advisor
to John Wesely Powell before his second expedition to the Grand Canyon, acting
as a diplomat between Powell and the local native tribes to ensure the safety of
his party.
In 1857, the U.S. War Department asked Lieutenant Joseph Ives to lead an
expedition to assess the feasibility of an up-river navigation from the Gulf of
California. Also in a stern wheeler steamboat "Explorer", after two months and
350 miles (560 km) of difficult navigation, his party reached Black Canyon some
two months after George Johnson.[citation needed] The "Explorer" struck a rock
and was abandoned. Ives led his party east into the Canyon - they were the first
Europeans to travel the Diamond Creek drainage and traveled eastwards along the
South Rim.Weather
Weather in the Grand Canyon varies according to elevation. The forested rims are
high enough to receive winter snowfall, but along the Colorado River in the
Inner Gorge, temperatures are similar to those found in Tucson and other low
elevation desert locations in Arizona. Conditions in the Grand Canyon region are
generally dry, but substantial precipitation occurs twice annually, during
seasonal pattern shifts in winter (when Pacific storms usually deliver
widespread, moderate rain and high-elevation snow to the region from the west)
and in late summer (a phenomenon known as the "monsoon", which delivers waves of
moisture from the southeast, causing dramatic, localized thunderstorms fueled by
the heat of the day).[13] Average annual precipitation on the South Rim is less
than 16 inches (35 cm), with 60 inches (132 cm) of snow, the higher North Rim
usually receives 27 inches (59 cm) of moisture, with a typical snowfall of 144
inches (317 cm), and Phantom Ranch, far below the Canyon's rims along the
Colorado River at 2,500 feet (762 m) gets just 8 inches (17.6 cm) of rain, and
snow is a rarity.
Temperatures vary wildly throughout the year, with summer highs within the Inner
Gorge commonly exceeding 100 øF (37.8 øC) and winter minimum temperatures
sometimes falling below zero degrees Fahrenheit (-17.8 øC) along the canyon's
rims.[13] Visitors are often surprised by these potentially extreme conditions,
and this, along with the high altitude of the canyon's rims, can lead to
unpleasant side effects such as dehydration, sunburn, and hypothermia. Be
prepared for a variety of potential weather conditions when visiting, and keep
in mind the Grand Canyon is a rugged natural feature located in a remote area
subject to a wide range of environmental hazards.
Weather conditions can greatly affect hiking and canyon exploration, and
visitors should obtain accurate forecasts because of hazards posed by exposure
to extreme temperatures, winter storms and late summer monsoons. While the park
service posts weather information at gates and visitor centers, this is a rough
approximation only, and should not be relied upon for trip planning. For
accurate weather in the Canyon, hikers should consult the National Weather
Service's NOAA weather radio or the official NWS website.
928.707.0291
24/7
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